Salerno & Paestum

SALERNO
Capital of Campania's southernmost province, Salerno has much of the scruffy disorganized charm of Naples. Its grim industrial suburbs come as a particular shock after the beauty of the coast. In its favour, Salerno claims to be a living, working city rather than a museum piece. Its claim to fame is that it was the capital of the Norman empire in the 11th century. It also claims the oldest medical school of Europe, allegedly founded by an Arab, a Jew, a Christian and a Turk.

Most recently it was the site of the Allied landing of the 6th September 1943. The allies landed from the sea to the south of the town, the assault was led by the US 6th Corps and the British 10th Corps; after strong opposition by the 16th Panzer division had been overcome, elements of the Allied army entered the town next day. The old quarter was damaged and only half restored.

The city centre is a mixture of wild avenues and a small medieval core full of alleys and lanes.

The main attraction of Old Salerno is its Duomo, the Cathedral, built by Roberto Guiscardo, the Norman leader in 1085. With a large courtyard and a loggia supported by classical columns plundered from Paestum. Byzantine bronze doors open onto a disappointing interior, clumsy restored after the 1688 earthquake. Nonetheless, the 12th century pulpits are a satisfying combination of Arab-Sicilian and Moorish design. Near to the seafront is a large pedestrian area with a great selection of good shops.

PAESTUM

A pleasant drive south along the "Autostrada del Sole" brings you to Salerno, where a short stop is made. Continuing south, we reach the site of the Greek temples of Paestum, where you will find the Temple of Neptune (5th century B.C.), one of the best preserved Greek temples in the world. Here there are three temples plus the ruins of the city itself and also a very interesting museum, housing the treasures found in the excavations in the area.